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The Trip of a Lifetime. |
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| Isn’t
it odd the way
things
happen sometimes? One sets off on a course of action only to discover
midway through that what you thought was the goal isn’t any
more and the change in focus results in such an incredible experience
that you wonder why you did not make it your objective in the first
place. The other day, for example, whilst sitting in my office, numbed by the constant sound of traffic and the endless digital images from various recent shoots, I received a call from his lordship - the Getaway editor. Would I, he asked (speaking quickly and obviously on deadline), like to pop up to Kariba for a few days to spend some time on the Zambezi Trader – a steamer that plies the waters of Lake Kariba, dropping off and picking up passengers and supplies as it goes along. “Get in touch with Brett McDonald of Flame of Africa”, he said, “and he’ll set up the trip for you. Enjoy. Bye” Always eager to oblige I duly gave McDonald a call. “No problem”, said Brett, “let me set something up and I’ll e-mail you an itinerary”. A few days later a document arrived in my inbox and not much arm wrestling was needed to change the couple of days on Lake Kariba into a 4-week adventure through Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia! “Are you nuts”, friends exclaimed when they heard we were not only going to Zimbabwe, but flying on that country’s national carrier as well. As intrepid explorers however we cast caution to the wind, boarded the plane and found the flight from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls superb, the service excellent, the food great and the landing gentle. We were met by Ranjisi Nakusengwa, Brett’s resident houseboat captain/right-hand man and were whisked off in grand style (huddled around a stocked cooler-box on the back seat) towards the Zimbabwe/Botswana border post at Kazangula. There we were deftly passed on to Frank Chikosi of Safari and Guide Services (based in the town of Kasane), who was to be our guide for the next 10 days on what was an unforgettable adventure through Chobe, Savuti and Moremi. Our trip was everything a camping experience in the African bush should be – simple but comfortable - without the hassles of packing and unpacking, pitching tents, erecting showers, digging toilets, making fires or preparing food. All this was done for us, while we got on with the business of relaxing, going on a game drive or sipping a sundowner. Our first campsite was pitched on the banks of the Chobe River. It was late June and the floodwaters caused by the summer rains in Angola had reached the Kasane region, pushed back up the Chobe River and flooded the low-lying land. The arrival of all this water attracted large elephant herds and there were times during our stay when it seemed that every elephant on the planet was down at the Chobe River slacking its thirst! After several days in the area, we headed south to Savuti, where we were treated to marvellous sightings of lion, as they eyed the zebra, wildebeest and antelope grazing the plains of the Savuti Marsh. The pans had started to dry out, which meant that any waterhole artificially fed by a borehole made for great game viewing. The rather aptly named ‘Pump Pan’ proved to be a magnate for thirsty elephant and such was the clamour for water that even the doves had to wait their turn in case they got trampled beneath impatient feet. We moved on to Moremi with some reluctance, as this was to be our last port of call before returning to Kasane. Moremi looked particularly beautiful and we were spoilt for choice as we roamed between Khwai, Xakaxana and Third Bridge looking for game. We saw large numbers of hippos and crocodiles in various pans and herds of elephant and zebra in the mopane woodlands. Our campsite at Hippo Pools was visited at night by lion, elephant and hyena and it was great, though at times unnerving, to hear their sounds through the thin canvas walls of our tent. All too soon it was time for the 350km trip back. As always when something good comes to an end, going home is the awful part and this time the road seemed interminable as our heavy 4X4 and off-road trailer made slow, ponderous progress through the thick sand. Some 10 hours later we pulled into Kasane, tired and tetchy, with the indomitable Frank the only bright and breezy one left amongst us. Next morning, suitably refreshed, we headed back into Zimbabwe to Victoria Falls where we were due to get involved in Shearwater’s incredible adrenaline program. So what is Zimbabwe like? Well we arrived just prior to President Mugabe’s rather innovative fiscal reforms and things were just fine. Everyone, from the immigration officials down to the man in the street, was friendly and helpful and only too pleased to welcome tourists and their precious foreign exchange. Obviously Zimbabweans have over the years learnt to make contingency plans, as the various hotels and guest-houses we stayed at, and more especially the houseboat on Kariba, somehow managed to put some really good food (and great wine) on the table in spite of the shortages experienced in the supermarkets. Would we go back? In an instant! Were we safe? I really believe we were, though going through a dependable travel company with loads of local knowledge was invaluable. Shearwater’s action activities are legendary, from their white water rafting to their famed bungee jump and everything in between. ‘The Flight of Angels’ over the Victoria Falls was, as always, breathtaking, the birds-eye view of over a million litres of water thundering over a 100 metre drop every second, quite awesome. ‘Walking with Lions’ was next on the agenda and the thrill as we got up close and personal with three sub- adult lions in the bush took us completely by surprise. They did their lion thing, interacting with each other and us and at one stage when we were allowed to touch and stroke them, no-one in the group needed much convincing to do just that. Come late afternoon the booze cruise boats on the Zambezi are the place to be. While the large boats (and there are many) are popular, we opted for the much smaller and more intimate River Safari. Wow! Our fellow passengers were 3 university professors from the USA who proved to be inveterate birders and we could only hang our heads in shame at the speed at which they identified many of the species we spotted. We saw some marvellous birds (a melanistic goshawk and an African finfoot amongst them), got really close to several large bull elephants as they fought the current to cross the river, had great sightings of hippos and crocodiles and stopped on an island for drinks and snacks – definitely the way to go. Talking about sundowners, the veranda of the majestic Victoria Falls Hotel is an absolute must. While even the house wine is pricey at USD 10 a glass, the hotel, view and ambiance are incomparable. Overlooking the falls and the Batoka Gorge, it was totally sublime sitting there, sipping wine and taking in the atmosphere and I almost regretted not packing my blazer and flannels! ;-) We flew to Harare, to join up with Brett and his wife, Jackie, prior to driving to Lake Kariba to board the luxurious Salon Privé for a 4-day cruise around the lake. (We were of course supposed to be spending time on the Zambezi Trader and although it wasn’t quite ready yet, it already had great atmosphere). We stopped en route at the Chinhoyi Caves and if you’re heading up that way they are certainly worth a look. The cobalt blue of the ‘Sleeping Pool’, hidden deep inside the darkness of the caves is a dramatically eerie sight. The sixty-foot, 4 double-cabin Salon Privé is best described as pure decadence. The fixtures and fittings are fabulous and we revelled in the luxury. Time slipped by as we indulged ourselves, sipping Bombay Sapphires in the Jacuzzi, watching game from the decks and fishing for bream off one of the two tenders that we towed along. And we ate some of the finest food - ever. The dinners especially were splendid affairs, held on the aft deck, lit by a billion stars with air-conditioning provided by the cool evening breezes. We interrupted our lazy routine to pop onto Spurwing Island one afternoon for a beer and a snack. Understated and relaxed, the accommodation looked comfortable, but the focal point was surely the swimming pool, which must have one of the finest views of Africa. The final leg of our journey took us across the dam wall into Zambia and on to the Lower Zambezi Park; where we were due to spend several nights at first Kasaka Lodge and then some 40 minutes by boat further down the Zambezi River at Mwambashi Lodge. Both are tented safari camps and are superbly located on the banks of the river, with marvellous food, great service and friendly staff. Our mission? Tigers! No not cats – fish! And as neither of us had ever caught anything more exciting than a single shad on the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast before, it was great to have tiger-addicts Brett and Jackie on board to show us the ropes as it were. We both caught (and landed) our first tigers, the fish fighting like things possessed. It was real adrenalin stuff and we went on to catch several more, one reaching some 13.5 lbs, which grew larger in size with every sip of wine at dinner that evening. We did squeeze in some time for game viewing and loved it. While both lodges take game drives into the Lower Zambezi Park we elected to game view from the river and it was a good choice. We saw incredible bird life, elephant, buffalo, zebra, a variety of antelope and of course hippo and crocodile, all of which appeared particularly unconcerned by our proximity on the water. It really is a gentler option than doing the 4X4 thing through the bush, with the added bonus of no dust or tsetse flies. What bliss! Also of course there’s the fishing and if the mood takes one, the rods are right there. Kasaka is one of the few safari lodges around that accommodates children and their large thatched chalet called the ‘Hippo Pod’ sleeps 6 and is ideal for mom, dad and kids. Their ‘Bush Kids at Kasaka’ program includes a range of interactive conservation and cultural experiences and even extends to story telling while mom and dad enjoy a quiet dinner. Certainly the parents we met around the table at night raved about the whole concept. On our arrival at Mwambashi, the manager took one look at us and sent us off to stay in the Honeymoon Suite. Why, we’re not too sure but we seized the moment and hurried off to sumptuous luxury. A beautiful open oval room with it’s own swimming pool and deck overlooking the Zambezi awaited us, but if truth be told all we saw at first was the bath. And what a bath! And with a view of the bush! We’d had showers (and in some instances no showers) over the last few weeks, but this was the first bath and boy did it look good! And so we wallowed amongst the bubbles, drank sherry and wallowed some more. Sublime! Our trip was not cheap and there are certainly a lot less expensive options out there, but Flame of Africa are masters at travel in the region and can structure things accordingly. It occurred to us (perhaps on the occasion of our second Tiger) that when one talks about a trip of a lifetime so often one thinks of touring Europe or the Far East or doing the Bering Straits. But here’s the thing: we have been on many safaris and several overseas trips but none have come close to this for excitement, adventure and relaxation. The Trip of a Lifetime is here. Right on our doorstep!
Advisor. Visa Requirements: South African passport holders do not require visas to enter Botswana, Zambia or Zimbabwe. As regards other passport holders it is advisable to contact visa authorities to check for entry requirements. Precautions: Anti-malaria tablets are recommended year round, although malaria is less prevalent during the dry winter months. Wear long sleeves and trousers in the early morning and evenings to prevent mosquito bites and use insect repellent copiously. Consult your doctor regarding prophylactics. Money Matters: Spending money should be in smaller denominations (whether cash or travellers cheques). Credit cards can be used in Kasane, Livingstone and Victoria Falls, but should not be relied upon as your main source of funds. Please note that MasterCard no longer operates in Zimbabwe. How to Get There: SA Airways and British Airways operate daily flights from Johannesburg to Victoria Falls, Air Zimbabwe does the route 4 times a week and SA Express 3 times a week. Nationwide, SA Airways and British Airways operate daily flights from Johannesburg to Livingstone. Charter flights are available daily from Lusaka to the Lower Zambezi Valley. (There is a 12-kilogram luggage limit and soft bags are preferred). Both Kasaka and Mwambashi lodges undertake transfers to and from the airstrip. If you are travelling by vehicle do not forget to take your vehicle logbook with you as well as a police clearance certificate. The traffic police in Zimbabwe enforce speed and other traffic regulations with enthusiasm. Stick religiously to the speed limits (rather go too slowly) and wear your seatbelt at all times when you are in the car - you will get fined for seatbelt violations. When to go: The dry winter months from May to August are best for game viewing. What to wear and take: Lightweight clothing with rainwear is recommended for November to March. NB: September and especially October can get incredibly hot with temperatures soaring to over 45°C. During the winter months from May to August it can be sunny and warm during the day but cold in the early morning and evening, so warm clothing with jackets is a must for camping and game viewing on open 4X4 vehicles and boats. Neutral colours are best for safaris. Don’t forget to take sun block, sunglasses and hats, as well as binoculars, cameras and comfortable walking shoes. A small torch is useful while camping. What to do: Chobe, Savuti and Moremi/Botswana: Game viewing, bird watching camping, boat rides and sunset cruises on the Chobe River. Victoria Falls/Zimbabwe: Visit the falls, do the Shearwater action program that includes ‘Flight of Angels’ helicopter ride, elephant bank safari, walking with lions, white water rafting, canoeing on the Zambezi, river safari, booze cruise, guided trails, bungee jump, zip line and swing. Lake Kariba: Boat cruises, houseboats, fishing, game viewing, bird watching and guided walks. Lower Zambezi area/Zambia: Game drives, boat safaris, general angling, tiger fishing, fly fishing, guided walks, bird watching, canoeing on the Zambezi and cultural visits. Where to Book: Flame of Africa can tailor-make your safari, with an eye on your budget, requirements and time constraints. Contact: Tel: +27 861 312 312 or +27 (31) 762 2424. Fax. No +27 (31) 762 2402. Email: getaway@flameofafrica.com Website: www.flameofafrica.com Other Contacts: Safari & Guide Services (Pty) Ltd/Botswana: Tel: +267 625 1754 / 625 0259 / 625 0029 Fax: +267 625 0259 Email: travel@botsnet.bw Website: www.untamed-africa.com Kasaka River Lodge/Zambia: Tel: +260 (1) 268 145. Fax: +260 (1) 260 012 Website: www.kasakariverlodge.com Email: kasaka@coppernet.zm Mwambashi River Lodge/Zambia: Central Reservations: Tel: +27 (0) 86 111 2485. Central Reservation: Fax: +27 (0) 41 581 0901. Email: thepride@lionroars.com Website: www.lionroars.com Spurwing Island/Zimbabwe: Tel: +263 (61) 2466/2269 Fax: + 263 (61) 2301 Email: spurwingisland@zambezi.net Website: www.spurwing.co.zw Nkwazi Safaris (Operating houseboats the Salon Privé and the Lady May)/Zimbabwe: Tel: +263 (4) 757398/751298. Fax:+263 (4) 756930. Email: info@nkwazi.co.zw. Shearwater/Zimbabwe: Tel: +263 (13) 4 4471. Email: reservations@shearwater.co.zw. Website: www.shearwater.co.zw |
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